From vinography.com The difference between a good public wine tasting and a bad one can be quite dramatic. The bad ones are in crappy locations, are poorly organized, offer no food, and only mediocre wines. The good ones are, well, just the opposite -- nicely organized, well catered, and offer great wines. And the best ones? Well, they throw in a jazz quartet, and all you can eat oyster bar, a dessert bar, and wines that sometimes retail for hundreds of dollars, if you can find them, at all. And that's just what you get at the annual Wine and Spirits Top 100 tasting. Like many of their peers in the magazine world, Wine & Spirits publishes an annual award issue, in which they celebrate what they think are the Top 100 wineries around the world, based on the quality of their wines. Regular readers know that I'm no fan of such lists, which I generally find to be meaningless. Thankfully the Wine & Spirits list doesn't actually rank these wineries from 1 to 100. They just publish an issue with profiles of each and list their high scoring wines (which presumably got them on the list to begin with). But more to the point, the magazine also puts on an event every year where all 100 of these wineries are invited to pour the wines that were rated highly by the magazine, and it ends up being one hell of a tasting, and this year was no different. Keeping the winning formula from last year, this year's event included food from the magazine's picks for the top new restaurants in San Francisco. In any case, on to the wines. Most wineries brought only 2 wines apiece, usually their two top scoring wines of the year. I've divided my tasting notes into sparkling, white, and red, and grouped them by score, as usual. Enjoy. Sparkling SPARKLING WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10 1988 Veuve Clicquot Champagne "Rare Vintage" SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2002 Louis Roederer "Cristal" Brut Champagne SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 SPARKLING WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2007 Didier Dagueneau "Pur Sang" Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 2008 J. Hofstätter Alto Adige Kolbenhof Gewurztraminer. 2007 Chateau de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 1991 R. López de Heredia Rioja Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 2007 Wind Gap "Griffin's Lair Vineyard" Syrah, Sonoma Coast 2007 Perrin et Fils Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape. $100. Click to buy. 2001 Château Musar Red Wine, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
Yellow gold in the glass, with nearly invisible bubbles, this wine has a fantastically aromatic nose of marzipan, toasted bread, and roasted nut aromas. In the mouth, the wine has amazing balance and poise, with flavors of roasted hazelnuts, lemon rind, butter crackers, and an incredibly long, fine finish that has a savory, even slightly salty quality. Outstanding. $120. Click to buy.
Light gold in the glass with very fine bubbles, this wine smells of lemon juice and toasted sourdough bread. In the mouth the wine has a classic profile of lemon juice, sourdough toast, and Ritz Crackers. Nicely balanced, and utterly delicious. $180. Click to buy.
SPARKLING WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
NV Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Premier. $??
NV Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Rosé Première Cuvée. $55
1999 Saint-Chamant Champagne Brut Cuvée de Chardonnay. $78
2004 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Vintage Rosé. $80
2002 Movia Goriška Brda Puro Rosé. $47
NV Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Première Cuvée. $65
2000 Saint-Chamant Champagne Brut Cuvée de Chardonnay. $78
NV Saint-Chamant Champagne Brut "Envy" Blanc de Blancs. $56
2006 Gramona Cava Gran Reserva Imperial. $30
NV Pehu-Simonet Champagne Brut Rosé Grand Cru. $60
2003 Roederer Estate Anderson Valley L'Ermitage Brut Rosé. $??
2001 Gramona Cava Brut Gran Reserva Celler Batlle. $80
NV Pehu-Simonet Champagne Brut Sélection Grand Cru. $55
White
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10
Near colorless in the glass, with an incredibly mineral nose of wet limestone and lime zest, this wine conveys a remarkable crystalline delicacy on the palate. Flavors of lime juice, grass or green hay, wet steel and a surprising hint of green melon hang suspended in a weightless, resonant river over the palate. The finish is incredibly long and satisfying. This is sadly the last vintage made by this master of the Loire, and a good reminder of why his premature death in a plane crash is a crushing loss for the wine world. Outstanding. $100.Click to buy.
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2008 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly. $65. Click to buy.
2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. $100. Click to buy.
2008 Domaine Faiveley Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru. $400. Click to buy.
Light greenish gold in the glass, this wine has a heady perfume of roses and orange peel aromas, which suffuse the wine from start to finish. The flavors swirl between these two poles atop a bed of rainwater freshness that is disarming and delicious. Wow. $50.
Light gold in color, this wine has a phenomenal nose of green olives, dried orange rind, and acacia honey. In the mouth, the wine's satin texture and weighty presence on the tongue bring to mind the voluptuous curves and invisible brush strokes of nudes in Botticelli paintings. Flavors of orange zest, lemon curd, dried mango and dried pineapple swirl amidst a bright acidity and deep resonant minerality that leans towards the saline end of the spectrum. Both rich as well as light on its feet, this is a wine that begs to be swallowed, especially as it lingers for a long while after the fact. Outstanding. $90 Click to buy.
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Kamptal Gobelsburger Riesling. $70
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg Kamptal Gaisberg Reserve Riesling. $48
2007 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling "Tradition". $50
2005 Marcel Deiss Alsace Burg Bergheim Vineyard Premier Cru. $42
2007 Movia Goriška Brda Ribolla. $30
2008 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots. $100
2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. $250
2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Premier Cru Clos St-Landry. $65
2007 Domaine Leflaive Meursault. $155
2007 Domaine Leflaive Clavoillon Puligny-Montrachet. $145
2008 Domaine Antonin Guyon Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. $??
2007 Chehalem Dundee Hills Ian's Reserve Stoller Vineyards Chardonnay. $34
1987 R. López de Heredia Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva. $100
2007 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane. $180
2008 Niepoort Douro Redoma Branco Reserva. $45
2008 Hermann J. Wiemer Finger Lakes Dry Magdalena Vineyard Riesling. $25
2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg. $70
2008 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Premier Cru Dom. Drouhin Vaudon. $20
2000 R. López de Heredia Rioja Viña Tondonia Reserva . $40
2009 Casa Silva Colchagua Valley Cool Coast Sauvignon Blanc. $22
2008 Domaine Gerovassiliou Epanomi Malagousia. $25
2008 Hermann J. Wiemer Finger Lakes Reserve Dry Gewurztraminer. $20
2001 Château Musar Gaston Hochar. $34
2008 Domaine Gerovassiliou Epanomi Fumé Sauvignon Blanc. $25
Red
RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10
2008 Williams Selyem Block Ten Massal Selection Pinot Noir. $?? not publicly available.
Light ruby in the glss with distinct orange at the rim, this wine has a pungent nose of sandalwood incense and dried cherries. In the mouth it is ethereal in quality, with a lightness on the palate that is remarkable. Faint dusty tannins swirl in a cloud of sandalwood, dried flowers, dried cherries, and as the wine heads for its minutes long finish, a note of cream sherry. $85. Click to buy.
Dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of white pepper, cassis, and macerated blueberries. In the mouth the wine has an unbridled power that is quite extraordinary, strung between a deep resonant mineral undertone, and rich blackberry and cassis fruit. The wine finishes long with a sweet aroma on the finish. Excellent. $45 Click to buy.
2007 Achával-Ferrer Mendoza Finca Bella Vista Malbec. $90. Click to buy.
2006 Bond Napa Valley Quella. $225. Click to buy.
2006 Bond Napa Valley Pluribus. $225. Click to buy.
Cloudy garnet in the glass, this wine smells of leather, cherry fruit, and a deep rich river mud. In the mouth the wine offers nothing if not fantastic honesty. Impeccably balanced, with great acidity, the flavors of cherry, wet potters clay, and leather swirl with herbal and floral qualities for minutes through the finish. Alive. $49. Click to buy.
RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2007 Flowers Sonoma Frances Thompson Noir. $70
2007 Flowers Sonoma Coast Sea View Ridge Pinot Noir. $70
2008 Williams Selyem Westside Road Neighbors Pinot Noir. $55
2007 J. Hofstätter Alto Adige Barthenau Vigna S. Urbano Pinot Nero. $65
2008 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru. $71
2008 Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers. $105
2007 Moric Burgenland Neckenmarkt Alte Reben Blaufränkisch. $120
2007 Niepoort Douro Charme. $98
2007 Quinta do Vallado Douro Reserva. $65
2007 Wind Gap Russian River Valley Castelli-Knight Ranch Syrah. $48
2005 E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape. $43
2005 Yarra Yering Yarra Valley Dry Red Wine No. 1. $95
2002 Yarra Yering Yarra Valley Underhill Shiraz. $95
2007 Chehalem Oregon Reserve Pinot Noir. $49
2007 Williams Selyem Sonoma Coast Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir. $75
2007 Louis Jadot Pommard Premier Cru Clos de la Commaraine. $50
2007 Moric Burgenland Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben Blaufränkisch. $112
2007 Moric Moric. $50
2005 Stéphane Ogier Père et Fils Côte Rôtie La Belle Hélène Côte Rozier. $100
2007 Stéphane Ogier Père et Fils Côte Rôtie. $100
2006 Catena Zapata Mendoza Gualtallary Adrianna Vineyard Malbec. $120
2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert. $??
2008 Moric Blaufränkisch. $30
2008 Quinta do Vallado Douro. $25
2006 Catena Zapata Mendoza Altamira Nicasia Vineyard Malbec. $120
2006 Casa Silva Colchagua Valley Microterroir de los Lingues Carmenère. $39
2007 Quinta do Vesuvio Douro. $70
2007 Louis Jadot Pinot Noir. $15
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
The Best Wines of the Year?: Taste Testing the Wine & Spirits Top 100
Monday, October 25, 2010
Untitled
Cava Wine was developed in the 1860′s after a wine maker, Josep Raventos, discovered this sparkling wine in the Champagne region of France. He loved the crispness and the dry yeasty taste displayed by the sparkling wines and wanted to create his own in Spain in the same method as the French used which is described here. The Spanish sparkling wine he eventually created he called “Champán,” Spanish for “Champagne” which would become the name for these Spanish sparkling wines until the European wine makers union forced the Spanish wine-makers to change their name. They eventually did so to “Cava,” the Spanish word for cave, which was usually where the Cavas were stored. In essence, these Cava wines are not that much different compared to French champagne. I should mention that for this article I mention Champagne made in France, not the American “champagne” you can buy for $8 at the liquor store. Mostly the same grapes are used and the processing and storage methods are exactly the same. Why is Cava wine then so much cheaper than champagne generally? For one, French champagne is way more popular. Ever hear of Dom Perignon? Cristal? Exactly. Basic economics of supply and demand mandate that Champagne can be priced higher due to increased demand. Add in the many dollars (or Euros) thrown in for the marketing of champagne to maintain the association of Champagne with glamour and the priced can be bumped up even higher. The more money put in to get the wines sold, the more they can charge. Another reason perhaps? The climate of the Champagne region in France where the grapes are grown is generally colder however, year to year the average temperature of the region can change drastically. Predicting when to harvest the grapes every year is quite difficult, adding more work to maintain the high quality. Therefore add an extra bump in the price. Champagne makers also hand pick the grapes and grade every single grape in quality. Add in the regal prestige of Champagne (for example the first bottle of Cristal was made specially for the Czar of Russia in the late 1600′s and never became publicly retailed until the early 1900′s) and Cava never had a chance to compete prestige-wise after it was first made. Poor Cava never had a chance it seems. Until this current economic downturn. Cava was flying under the radar for quite a long time. People were even buying it in the States without even knowing it was not Champagne but, Cava. If you have ever bought “champagne” from Freixenet or Cordoniu then you really bought Cava. Even I made this mistake before I became more interested in Spanish wine. Some people even consider Cava to be better than Champagne which is really no surprise. The warmer and more consistent climates that produce Cava can actually make the grapes more ripe, therefore better for wine production. The grapes are even handpicked and graded in the same fashion as the French yet the cost is drastically lower. To put this all together, there is a strong potential that for a much lower price Cava wine could be a better buy than actually buying French Champage, and even American “champagne.” The method of production, the hand-picking and quality grading of the grapes, and the Cava D.O.’s themselves can lead to a much better sparkling wine than what people expect. If you are on a budget and want to enjoy a good foreign sparkling wine of high quality at a lower price then look away from the French and strongly consider Spain. You, and your wallet, might thank you.
Friday, October 22, 2010
Rioja returns to favor in US
from http://www.winophilia.com/2010/10/21/rioja-returns-to-favor/ For many American wine lovers, especially those of a certain age, Spanish wine means Rioja—and specifically red Rioja. Riojas are typically based on Spain’s indigenous tempranillo grape; the wines display a range of red fruit and floral qualities, with sound acidity providing backbone and freshness. Traditionally, Rioja’s flavors, texture and weight were reminiscent of Bordeaux. But in contrast to classic Bordeaux, most Riojas received extended aging in barrels, usually made of American oak, and this approach yielded wines that were drinkable soon after release. The juicy red fruit, spice and vanilla flavors and supple tannins of classic Riojas made these wines quite popular among savvy American consumers through the 1980s and early 1990s. Fair prices didn’t hurt their appeal either. In the early 1990s American importers began expanding their Spanish portfolios, exploring regions in Spain’s dry, warm west and southeast that previously had virtually no presence in the American marketplace but whose wines could offer excellent value. Market share for these new areas came at the expense of Rioja, whose wines are drier and more structured than those warmer regions’ examples, which tend to be fruity, low in tannin and higher in alcohol as well. But tastes are cyclical, and many of today’s winos are shifting away from rich, jammy reds in favor of more graceful, structured wines that work better with food. That plays straight to the strengths of Rioja. The good news is that prices have mostly remained stable over the last decade. Even better news is that winemaking standards have leapt forward, as has the selection of Riojas available to Americans. During my extensive annual Spanish wine tastings for the International Wine Cellar (hundreds of the best Spanish wines are reviewed in the current issue, with more on tap for the next one), I mostly tasted wines from the cooler, damper 2008 and 2007 vintages. While collectors are mostly shunning those years for the more ageworthy 2005s that are still in the market, or waiting for the promising 2009s, a number of ’08s and ’07s make for delightful near-term drinking. So they are good choices for consumers who don’t have proper conditions for cellaring wine or who simply believe in instant gratification. Among the standouts of this year’s tastings was the 2007 Bodegas Palacios Remondo La Montesa Rioja ($20; Folio Fine Wine Partners), made by famed Spanish winemaker Alvaro Palacios, who is also responsible for some of Spain’s most sought-after and expensive wines from Priorat. It offers smooth texture, upfront fruity appeal, and the alluring oak-spicy character that marks classic Rioja. With no hard edges, it’s delicious right now. Bodegas Don Sancho de Londoño (Olé Imports) makes some of the greatest value-priced Riojas in the market, and while their entry-level Cortijo bottling is always a stunning value at around $10, the next step up, the 2008 Calma Rioja ($15), a blend of 90% tempranillo and 10% graciano, is a more complex and solid wine, with greater depth and power as well. It drinks well now but will be even better in a few years. For a wilder example of Rioja try the 2007 Ramon de Alaya Lete e Hijos Viña Santurnia Rioja Crianza ($15; Antalva Imports), which offers serious complexity for the money, with smoky, meaty and spice qualities complementing sweet red fruit. It’s a very flexible wine with food and would be great with braised lamb dishes this fall. Made in a more modern, fruit-driven style, the 2008 Conde de Hervías Mencos Rioja ($16; De Maison Selections) presents a compelling array of flowers, spices and red and dark berries, along with a seamless texture. For the money it shows serious depth and drinks well right now. In a similar vein but with more brightness I recommend the energetic 2008 Luberri Seis de Luberri Rioja ($18; De Maison), which offers sweet red and dark fruit flavors and silky tannins. The 2007 version, which is still available in some markets for the same price, displays more depth and a greater emphasis on dark fruits than the 2008. If you’re up for a splurge, try the 2007 Finca Allende Rioja ($26; Fine Estates from Spain), an exotic, exhilaratingly spicy and perfumed Rioja that delivers a load of juicy fruit. This wine bears comparison to plenty of other Riojas that sell for twice the price. Incidentally, for as little as $19.95 (for a two-month trial subscription), you can get immediate access to all of my coverage of Spain, as well as unlimited access to the entire on-line IWC, which includes the current issue, nearly 13 years of back issues, and an archive of tasting notes that now exceeds 80,000 wines. Your subscription also provides links that can help you find recommended wines in the marketplace and enables you to participate in the unusually civilized IWC discussion forum.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Mas Candi: Reinvigorating the Native Grapes of the Penedès
via catavino.net "As we’ve boasted on many an occasion, the Penedes is an unlimited geyser of native grapes. From our beloved Xarel.lo, a white chameleon grape capable of displaying intense tropical fruit and mineral aromas, to Samso, a vivacious and precocious red grape, the Penedes is a multifaceted palette of flavors. Yet, despite our undying support for this treasure trove of gorgeous fruit, it’s uncommon to find a winery equally dedicated to preserving its native resources. Over the years, wineries have eagerly ripped up their perfectly disorganized vineyards, chock full of native grapes, to plant internationally renowned grapes. Though varieties such as Chardonnay, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Gewurztraminer have crafted some impressive wines of both personality and quality in Spain, it must also be said that part of what makes Spanish wine unique is their plethora of auctonomous grapes. So when you find a few wineries willing to not only preserve their native grapes, but also work to bring back ancient ones, you can’t help but raise a glass in appreciation. One such winery is situated in the ruggedly quaint town of Les Gunyoles in Avinyonet del Penedès, located approximately 2 hours southwest of Barcelona. Founded in 2006 by four young, enthusiastic viticulture and enology students, who gained invaluable wine making experience in Burgundy, Mas Candi has carved out a reputation for dedicating itself to both land and grape preservation. According to viticulturalist, Toni Carbo, a young, sincere looking fellow with ruffled brown hair and killer smile, dedication to the land is what makes their wines not only unique, but expressive. “We are committed to finding the natural expression of each grape. We want the grape to show the herbs that grow wild at the foot of each vine, the minerals that infuse the earth, the cool winds that sweep past their leaves and the fruit that make each and every grape unique. And because we adore these vines like children, as vinitculture is a laborious act of love, we choose not to use chemicals when simple natural solutions can easily remedy any imbalance.” Of equal interest is the fact that Mas Candi is diligently trying to bring back to life a wide range of traditional Catalan auctonomous grapes such as: Mandó, Monica, Cannonnau and Roigenc. Now, you may be familiar with one of these grapes from Jay Miller’s healthy score of the 2004 Celler del Roure Maduresa, a wine that was blended with Mandó, but very few producers in Spain have reinvigorated this grape. The varietal Monica and Cannonnau have garnered popularity in Sardinia, but again, not in Spain, while Roigenc has seen little to no press; hence I’m clueless about its use or origins. If someone has more information on this grape, do tell. We tasted through their entire range of wines, both while nibbling upon Fuet on their veranda overlooking a swatch of vineyards, and while dining at an extraordinary restaurant for lunch (more on this later). Mas Candi produces 7 wines of which 4 are whites, 2 are reds and 1 is a brut nature cava. Of particular interest to me was their 2009 Mas Candi QX. The “QX” is meant to express the wines creation from 4 different parcels of Xarel.lo (Quatro Xarel.los) in 4 different vineyards (located in Les Gunyoles, Font-Rubí, el Pla del Penedès and Subirats) and aged in 4 types of oak (Chestnut, French, American and Acacia – also known as a Thorntree and primarily native to Africa, South America and Australia). Having tasted the 2009 QX, as well as 2 of the 4 wines aged in their respective barrels, the difference was incredible. The wine aged in the acacia barrel should a considerable amount of hazelnut, mineral and lemon flavors with an ample amount of acidity, while the wine aged in the medium toasted French oak showed bolder flavors of smoke, honey and spices. And when the individual notes came together to build a full, harmonious orchestra, the wine showed ripe cantaloupe and reduced lemon aromas over a base of honeysuckle and mineral. In short, a fabulous little wine. If you have a chance to get your hands on any of their wines, it’s worth your while. Feel free to email Mas Candi in English with any questions regarding either availability and/or distribution. And if you just happen to be their neck of the woods, just south of Barcelona, don’t hesitate to give them a ring and request a visit. Capable of speaking in more than one language, I trust your visit will be very well spent!" 
Monday, October 18, 2010
Reconsider ever trying Cambodian wine for the moment
PHNOM PENH, Cambodia – Fourteen people have died from drinking wine tainted with weed killer at a ceremony where the Cambodian villagers were appealing to spirits to protect children.
Twenty people still were hospitalized Monday.
Police in the eastern province of Kampong Cham said the victims drank locally produced rice wine from a bottle that had previously contained toxic herbicide. They are still investigating but believe the poisoning was accidental.
Provincial police chief Nuon Samin said people felt weak soon after drinking the wine at the ceremony Saturday. Nine died soon after, and five more on Sunday and Monday, even though doctors rushed to the village.
The community is 120 kilometers (75 miles) east of the capital Phnom Penh.
Your guide to buying Spanish wine – 10 things to look for
When buying wholesale Spanish wine, whether you are a restaurant or wine retailer or any other kind of trade that sells wine, you need to know what you are looking for and what to check for. A good wholesaler will have these listen on their website: Vinification – This is the process that has been taken to turn the grape juice into wine. There should always be displayed a short description of how the wine was vinified with information such as how old the vineyard is, where it is located, how long it is fermented and how long the maceration process is. This will give you an idea of how much effort has wet into producing the wine A good wine wholesaler will have this all listed with the product and should make it easy for you to read and gather the information about the wine you want to buy. They will also have details of all the vineyards they deal with on their website and how close they deal with the vineyard itself. A good wholesaler will go directly to the source for you to avoid any of your wine being tampered with, and ensure you get the finest quality product available. So next time you buy Spanish wine online, remember to check for all of these details.
Designation – This is a way of identifying the wine. For example: You buy a bottle from the Rioja region, the designation is Rioja. It is as simple as that. The designation will not always appear on the bottle as it is not always necessary. An example of a time when you would have to state the designation is if you created a Spanish wine in California, you would have to make people aware it was California (Wine kind).
Vintage – This is what year the wine was made.
Varieties – Which different grapes have been used to create the wine, with Rioja it is usually 90-100% Tempranillo which is a black grape.
Serving Temperature – This is basically what it says; the temperature the wine is best served at.
Harvest Rating – This is information of how the weather affected the vineyard that year and how that affected the grapes growing. It is always good to have a look at this as you can get a good idea of the quality of your wine. It is good to have an excellent rating if you are going to be reselling this wine.
Palette – This is the way in which you receive the wine, the texture and taste and the flavours you will experience as well as the smell. If you know your wine well then you can easily identify a wine by one sip.
Appearance – As stated, this is the colour of the wine and how the consistency looks to your eye.
Nose – This is how the wine smells when in a glass and what flavours you are able to smell. This should also explain how the smell sits and how strong the structure is.
Alcohol Proof – This should always be stated by law, this is how much alcohol the wine contains by a percentage. Wines range from 8% – 15.5 % alcohol volume so it is good to know if you are buying strong wine or weak wine.
Abstraction vs. Context: How do Toro Wines from Quinta Quietud Measure Up?
A couple of months ago, wine writer Jamie Goodeand I disagreed over an abstract approach to wine assessment. I took the deconstructive stance that one does not need to know any information about a bottle of wine to be able to rate it or appreciate it. Jamie argued that context (where it was made, from which grapes and by who) was all-important. To be fair to both of us, I think we didn’t view our approach from the correct angle, namely: who we were talking to. If you (and by ‘you’, I mean you the reader) want to know whether a bottle of wine is good or not, an abstract approach is key. A fair (underline ‘fair’) assessment of a wine can only come from the removal of all outside factors. It is, in a sense, reductive, but it works. The wine has to do its work to please you. If, however, you wish to do the work, if you want to ignore the qualitative and try to ‘understand’ the wine, more information will be required. I cannot find a better illustration of this than tasting two vintages of one of my favourite Toroestates: Quinta Quietud (or Quinta de la Quietud if you read the cork). The 2004 wine from the quinta is one of my favourite, all-time Toro wines. Taste or drink it and I get that lovely, juicy quality that I find in some of the best wines. It doesn’t happen on the back-palate, or on the finish – it’s all the way through, from the lip of the glass to the gullet, it’s fantastic. Big, juicy and fruity, warm but not hot, all with an elegant finish. It’s ageing a bit now (and showing some signs of Brett, but I’m English and I don’t mind a bit of horse in my wine) although it’s just as lovely and lip-smacking as it was when I first tasted it over two years ago. The 2005 Quinta Quietud is rather different. It’s a beast. Tasting it is like being waterboarded with a berry compote that’s been macerated in the finest homemade Polish vodka. If you want to know what it’s like to receive a punch in the face from Robert Parker, try this. It’s a massive wine. It goes beyond hedonism and into drug abuse. The finish is like a glue-sniffer’s burp and would be just as pleasant if there wasn’t the unbelievable whack of Toro tannin to give the substance some kind of structure. Structure it’s got, but everything, from the foundations to the roof is huge. It’s a totally different beast to the 2004. via catavino.net Now, to return the abstraction vs. context debate. I have no hesitation in telling you that I think the 2004 is the better, more enjoyable wine. If I tasted 2005 on its own, I would find it difficult to recommend. If you like huge fruit and high alcohol, it’s for you. Otherwise, stay away. A heady nose, displays its idiosyncratic Quietud aroma that’s a bit herbal, gamey and cow-patall at once (it seems to be developing already). On the palate, a good dose of dark (and relatively elegant) fruit but the sensation of alcohol is readily apparent, and just as it slips down there come the tannins. And don’t they just come, almost overwhelming the mouth before the heat and the fruit try to claw it all back. There is acidity here, but not much (which I don’t mind with Toro – it took me a while to understand this, but I’m happy with it this way – better that than winemakers try to add acid to appease those that don’t like low-acid wines). I hope, owning a case, that this wine ages well, but the alcohol level is a worry in this respect. 
Sunday, October 17, 2010
» Origins of Spanish Wine – Part II Spanish Wines
This is the second article chronicling the history of Spanish wine…
The approximately 800 years that followed the Moors near-full conquest of the Iberian Peninsula in 718 C.E. was a major battle between the Moors and the Spaniards. The Reconquista, as it was called, finally ended in 1492 with the Treaty of Grenada. I found this nice flash picture somewhat detailing the reconquest of Spain and Portugal from the Moors. Wine production was quite slow during the Moor occupation, although Xeres was still able to keep strong production going mostly due to a good job of convincing the local caliphs that their Sherry had medicinal purposes. The wine industry eventually creeped back into business as the Spaniards regained more and more control of the Iberian Peninsula. Wine exports were very slow due to Muslim dietary laws forbidding alcohol, although several emirs and caliphs on the peninsula had their own wineries. As the Spanish regained more land, the more wine that was exported.
During this time port cities like Bilbao in the north of Spain became important in distributing wine to France and played a major role introducing this wine into England. The English regarded this wine very highly due to the wines’ high alcohol content and full-bodied nature and made these wines some of the more highly priced wines in Britain. In return for the wine, which was mostly Sherry, the English would trade their wool. Relations between the two countries fell apart after English King Henry VIII’s first divorce to from Spanish Catherine of Aragon (his first wife) in 1525 so, the wine trade to England came close to halt for quite a while. The Spanish Inquisition was occurring during this time as well so, most of the English merchants left Spain out of fear.
For those that know their American history quite well, the year 1492 might ring a bell. Indeed, it is the same year that Christoffa Corombo, excuse me, Christopher Columbus discovered America. Naturally, the discovery of America marked a new area of the world for the Spaniards to market and grow their wine. Colonists had brought grape vines to build new vineyards from Mexico to Argentina. It wasn’t for long that these new colonial wineries had a great effect on the Spanish economy. However, once the Spanish Armada was defeated by the English in in 1588, the Spanish navy lost a considerable amount of power that it had in the Atlantic, which eventually drove the country into deep debt. The effect this had on the Spanish wine industry, in Spain and its colonies, was quite great. The debt accumulated in the early 1600′s forced King Phillip III to halt wine production in the Americas. Why? To increase wine exports from Spain, that way more money flows into debt-ridden Spain and not the colonies who are not as affected by the debt.
Interesting tidbits from this period:
- The Cordoniu winery, currently the world’s largest producer of Sparkling Wine, was founded in 1551 in what is currently to Cava region in Catalonia.
- Xeres became the first region to set up something similar to a D.O. in which rules and regulations were set up to standardize the making of Sherry and other wines in this region.
Technorati Tags: America, Catalonia, Cava, Cordoniu, Denominacion de Origen, England, Iberian Peninsula, Jerez, Sherry
Saturday, October 16, 2010
Murcia: Spanish Wine Country With An Old World Flavor
From http://www.wineclubshere.com/murcia-spanish-wine-country-with-an-old-world-flavor/
The region of Murcia in Spain is famous for its old world character, rich history and gorgeous weather. Connoisseurs know that Murcia is also synonymous with wine. Wine lovers who want a Spanish holiday with class and good taste, consider Murcia’s history.
Murcia’s wine is produced in the region of Jumilla. It covers the northern part of Murcia and the south-east portion of Albacete. It boasts 33,000 hectares of wine-producing grapes. Its vineyards turn out 220,000 hl of wine every year. In fact, the region actually comprises five separate denominations of origin. Each DO is closely regulated by the local government. It helps to ensure that only the best grapes are grown. In the case of organic wines (which are increasingly in demand), it ensures that growing regulations are followed. This provides quality assurance to consumers around the world. It is undoubtedly one of the reasons that Jumilla wines have been critically acclaimed in the last decade.
Superb cuisine and exquisite wine is as much a part of Spanish culture as language and heritage. This tapestry of culture is what fuels the wine industry in Spain, and Jumilla, Murcia in particular. Jumilla wines are acclaimed the world over. Thousands of tourists flock to the region annually to get a firsthand look at the production of Jumilla wine.
Archaeological evidence suggests that the production of Spanish wines dates back to 4000 B.C. An abundance of native species of grapes likely fueled interest in the production and consumption of wine in the region. Wine production in Spain pre-dates the establishment of Cadiz, the oldest port in Spain, by a few hundred years. However, it was upon its founding that Spanish wines began to be traded around Europe. Later, Jumilla’s wine industry took new shape under the settlement of the Romans. Although Roman rule has long since disappeared, its culture still influences the production of Jumilla wine today.
The Reconquest of Spain, which began in 722 A.D., saw locals reclaiming the wine industry. Wine was a key component in the rituals of the various orders of monks and friars of the time. After ousting previous conquerors, they began to take back wine production. Wine-making flourished for several centuries. Wines from Jumilla became distinguished on the world market, thanks in large part to those early monks.
Notwithstanding, the region has seem some challenging times. Phylloxera has plagued the Spanish wine-making industry at various points over the last several centuries. One of the most recent phylloxera attacks in 1989 led to the replanting of thousands of hectares of vineyards in Jumilla. The new vineyards produced a lighter variety of wine than had previously come from the area. Naturally, the phylloxera attack was financially devastating to the economy. However, the newly produced wines fueled new and greater public interest in Jumilla wines.
The Jumilla Wine Route is famous with locals and visitors alike. Travelers can book a wine tour through their travel agent, online or in person in Murcia. A wide range of accommodations is available in the area to suit any budget. Rental villas, condos and hotels in variety of price ranges are abundant. There are also a number of hostels in Murcia. Several all-inclusive resorts in the area, including the world-class LaManga Club, attract many visitors each year. Other resorts are currently under development. When finished, Spain tourism officials predict a healthy boost to the local economy.
Wine lovers may find themselves enthralled and dazzled by the exotic and fruity wines of Murcia. In fact, connoisseurs find themselves returning again and again to the lure of the vineyards of Jumilla. It may be the wine-lover’s ultimate Spanish holiday.
Friday, October 15, 2010
Scientists try to transform winemaking with technology
This is a link to the article from the Wall St. Journal: http://bit.ly/9QCtFi
"The Great Match" shows the potential of Spanish wine in the United States
From: http://www.sanchez-vicente.es/?p=2670 "The Great Match" is a series of tastings of wines and serves to show the wide variety of quality Spanish wines currently available in the U.S. market and recent vintages have come to the country and its versatility as a perfect combination for all types of cuisine. In a complementary fashion seminars and tastings are conducted in Spanish products whose proceeds go to charities in the cities where it is celebrated. Spanish exports to the United States in 2009 exceeded 5,800 million euros, of which 170 million came from sales of wine. Supporting the sector ICEX, since its inception, has considered the wine industry as a priority, both for its economic importance for their contribution to the creation of country image abroad. To bring the promotion to the market reality, since 2004 is in progress General Plan for the Promotion of Wines from Spain. The plan has achieved the integration of activities under the umbrella of Wines from Spain ("Wines from Spain") with an integrated campaign at international level. In this way it is conducting a more effective promotion, developed from the perspective of an integrated campaign of wines from Spain, where promotional gain significant synergies. There are currently office "Wines from Spain" in Germany, USA, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Netherlands, United Kingdom, Sweden and Switzerland. In addition, since 2009 the ICEX is implementing the Plan Made in / by Spain with the aim to consolidate the good image of Spanish products in the United States. As part of this campaign, which also includes other sectors such as industry and technology, we have searched our food industry project on the values of quality, innovation and art that represent the most renowned Spanish chefs and positioning the food products segment high quality.
The event is aimed exclusively at professionals and provides a unique opportunity for importers of Spanish wines widely available in exclusive products to the media and wine professionals and so increase their distribution.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Economic Effects of Washington Liquor Initiatives
By the wine economist:
This is the third in a series on initiatives to liberalize Washington’s alcoholic beverage laws (click here to read the first and second segments). How would Washington Initiatives I-1100 and I-1105 affect wine makers and wine consumers? Let’s look at wine makers first. Wine producers in Washington are not united either in support of or opposition to the initiatives. One industry group, The Washington Wine Institute, publicly opposes both initiatives, for example, while the Family Wineries of Washington State support them. Winners & Losers Both initiatives would create more avenues of competition for wineries by removing state restrictions that prevented discounted prices, negotiated payment schedules and so forth. Based on my conversations it seems that some wineries would welcome the opportunity to compete using a fuller range of business strategies. They would like to be able to go after the business they want and to reward retailers and restaurants that carry the full range of their products or who make long term commitments. Other wine makers are concerned that they may be disadvantaged in this new environment because they lack the resources or expertise to compete effectively. Interestingly, it is not just small wineries who want to avoid competition and not just large ones who embrace it. Obviously it is a complicated matter. One wine maker candidly told me that it is hard to know if the gains will outweigh the losses. This person saw obvious areas for new business expansion but realized there would be negative effects on margins and the need for more capital to accommodate extended payments. I sensed a very pragmatic attitude: wine is a business and business people have to cope with whatever is thrown at them whether it is Mother Nature (a late harvest) or a change in state liquor laws. My conversations reminded me of Olivier Torres’ discussion of the difference between French and American business strategy in his book The Wine Wars. American entrepreneurs, Torres says, look for new opportunities, taking risks, while the French business strategy is more about fending off threats. This is an oversimplified stereotype, of course, but it does seem to capture a bit of the wine war raging today in Washington state, where those with “French” attitudes are not necessarily from France. Will Small Wineries Get Squeezed? Television ads like the one I have inserted above suggest that small wineries would be especially hard hit by the new laws. A local news analysis of this ad raises some doubts about this claim (see this King5 report). Will small local wineries get crowded off the shelf? Here’s my brief analysis. I do think that large wine companies will have an advantage if the law is changed, but they have obvious economic advantages now, so this is nothing new. I would not be surprised to see big companies (Constellation Brands, Gallo, etc) increase their relative share of retail shelf space since they have the resources to offer discounts and incentives. It is also possible that spirits companies and distributors will bring associated wine brands with them as they rush to fill their newly opened retail market niche if the initiatives pass, adding to the “crowding out” effect. Retailers are trying to streamline their operations and reduced the number of suppliers they deal with, giving “drinks” companies that can supply wine, beer and spirits an advantage. This effect will differ by type of retail account, of course, and be different for fine dining versus casual dining restaurant sales. In the supermarket segment, for example, you can already see differences in the relative incidence of the big producer portfolios in Fred Meyer (Kroger) and Safeway stores compared with regional chains like Metropolitan Market. Although small wineries might get somewhat less shelf space, they certainly will not disappear from wine shelves and restaurant lists. Wine enthusiasts value diversity and smart sellers fill their shelves accordingly. That’s why a typical upscale supermarket offers 1500-2500 wine choices, at least ten times the number of options in any other product category. Retail wine margins are high and sellers profit by catering to their customers’ desire for a wide range of choices. I think the competition among smaller winemakers will be more of a factor than between the big corporations and the small family wineries. There are hundreds of small wineries in Washington state all seeking a place at the retail table. Right now it is pretty difficult for the maker of a $40 Walla Walla Syrah to get shelf space (or distributor representation) and many producers are sensibly reconfiguring their business plans to focus more on direct sales. This will remain a good strategy if the initiatives pass, but makers who want to compete for shelf space will have more tools at their disposal. And That’s A Good Thing? Bottom line: small wineries will get squeezed by the big boys, but other small wineries are the real competition (hence the lack of a consensus among wine makers) and the initiatives will make this competition much more intense. Is this a good thing? Well, it will probably be good for many consumers who will benefit from lower wine prices. They will likely have more (but different) wines to choose from too. Whether the new choices will be better is bound to be a matter of taste. If, as some have suggested, big box drinks retailers Bevmo and Total Wine open outlets in Washington it will change in significant ways the market terrain. At the Ballot Box How am I going to vote? The issue is complicated enough that I honestly haven’t decided yet. I am unlikely to vote for I-1105, however, since it seems like a stumbling half-step towards market liberalization. I find the wine market aspects of I-1100 appealing and, as an economist, I am programmed to believe in the benefits of competition, but I am still concerned about the liquor law changes. I don’t know how making spirits cheaper and more readily available will help solve the public health and safety problems associated with liquor consumption. Many will disagree with this view and I respect their opinions. I guess I’m going to have to weigh the pros and cons before I cast my ballot just like everyone else.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Sunday, October 10, 2010
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Spanish wine exports continue positive upward trend throughout ...
Spanish wine exports continue positive upward trend throughout 2010
Exports up 14.8 percent by volume and 6.3 percent by value in comparison to first seven months of 2009
10/06/2010
Spanish wine exports up in January-July 2010, 14.8 percent by volume and 6.3 percent by value / © ICEX
According to figures published by the Spanish Wine Market Supervisory Board (OeMv), Spanish wine exports have continued their positive upward trend in the first six months of 2010 increasing 14.8 percent by volume, representing 955.9 million litres, and 6.3 percent by value, reaching €1 billion, in comparison to figures from the same period in 2009. This trend has been marked throughout the whole year by the boost in non-DO bottled wines, with an increase of 65 percent by value and 69 percent by volume.
As regards DO bottled wines, the latest export figures continue to show a slight fall of 5 percent by value and 6.5 percent by volume. A decrease with is primarily due to the sharp fall in DO white wine sales, down 30 percent by value on the 2009 figures, which have been replaced by an increase in non-DO bottled white wine sales, up 131 percent by value from January-July 2010, in comparison to the year before. In addition, sparkling wine also registered negative results, with a fall of 5.4 percent by volume and 2 percent by value in the same period.
Results by country show that Spanish wine exports to the US continue to rise, increasing 9.4 percent by value and 13 percent by volume over the January-July figures from 2009. Germany remains the number one country for Spanish wine exports by value, up by 3.3 percent, while France is first on the list by volume owing, above all, to non-DO bulk wines, which represent around 75 percent of the total wine exported to France. In addition, China continues to register an important increase as a prime destination for Spanish wine exports, showing a rise in figures from January-July 2010 of 162.2 percent by value and 406.3 percent by volume.
In summary, Spanish wine exports continue to register a positive upward trend throughout 2010. The increase is primarily due to the high export sales figures of non-DO bottled wines despite the fall suffered by DO bottled white and sparkling wines.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Spanish Wine Maker Asda Sued For Having a Frog in a Wine Bottle
I just have to post this article since I find it quite funny how a frog could get into a wine bottle….
Monday, October 4, 2010
New Wave Spanish Wine Awards 2010 - Wines from Spain
‘New Wave Spanish Wine Awards 2010’ ceremony held at Spanish Embassy in UK
09/30/2010
The award ceremony for the ‘New Wave Spanish Wine Awards 2010’ was held at the Spanish Embassy in London on 22nd September. The Spanish Ambassador in London, D. Carles Casajuana, presided over the event, which brings the competition-cum-tasting in which the jury selected the 119 best Spanish wines available in the UK market, to a close.
A jury of 17 experts from the world of wine came together on 16th and 17th June to taste more than 900 wines that had been entered for the competition by hundreds of wineries. Master of Wine Tim Atkin, who writes for The Times, chaired the tasting panel, which comprised the buyers from the UK’s leading supermarkets and specialist retailers (including Waitrose, Marks & Spencer and Tesco amongst others) along with wine writers of the standing of Anthony Rose of The Independent and John Radford. Rounding out this list of famous names were those of highly respected sommeliers such as Bruno Marciano and Christine Parkinson of the British capital’s renowned Hakkasan restaurant.
Following the tasting the results were published, identifying the winning wines, in the 9th July issue of Off License News (OLN) and on the Wines from Spain UK website, www.winesfromspainuk.com. The 119 winning wines were later tasted by wine trade professionals at a special promotional event attended by over 100 people including journalists, buyers, importers, consultants and sommeliers.
To mark the occasion of the award ceremony at the Embassy a special supplement has been published in this month’s (September’s) issue of OLN, featuring the names of all the winners along with full details including the contact details for their distributors.
The award ceremony at the Spanish Embassy in London brought the ‘New Wave Spanish Wines 2010’ competition to a close. His Excellency the Spanish Ambassador gave a speech during the event in which he highlighted the considerable number of regions, grape varieties and D.O.s (25) that were represented in the competition. He also underscored the high quality of Spanish wines, which was reflected in the increased number (70% more than last year) of wines entered priced at over £20. D.Carles Casajuana congratulated the wineries too, especially the 15 winners that were awarded a Special Trophy.
This annual competition is an initiative driven by Wines from Spain in collaboration with ‘Off License News’, one of the industry’s leading specialist magazines. The competition aims to boost the presence of Spanish wine in the United Kingdom and offer a selection of Spanish wines best suited to the British consumer’s taste in terms of both quality and price.
Why French Winemakers Are Responsible For the Spanish Wines of Rioja
Thomas Ajava asked:
The world of wine is often discussed as though there are hard lines of demarcation in the wine producing regions. This is not even remotely the case as is seen by the fact that French winemakers developed much of the wine producing vineyards in the Rioja region of Spain.A gathering of wine drinkers is often a place to hear some of the more humorously spouted verbal garbage ever. There is always that one person who pronounces wines from Bordeaux are superior to North American wines or some such thing. This is, of course, do to the superior grapes used in the “fill in the blank” region. Such statements are the sign of a person who knows little of what they are talking about. Why? The history of wine gives us the answer.
Wine was obviously the drink of choice after water in Europe for a very long time. In the 1800s, the various explorers of North America brought vines with them. Most failed to grow given the different climate and indigenous pests. That was okay because North America had a unique form of vine that could take the climate and pests on. This vine was known as labrusca.
Import-export is a concept that usually is a good thing, but not always. With vines, it was a bad thing. The labrusca vine was imported into Europe. With it came the pests. One particular form was brutal – phylloxera. How so? The European vines had no defense against it. By the mid-1860s, all major vineyards in Europe had been destroyed by phylloxera.
Wine was big business in Europe. Phylloxera was not only a wine disaster – it was an economic one. Lots of money and effort was thrown at the problem. No method for defeating phylloxera was found. So, what did the Europeans do? They cross bread the European vintages with labrusca. The wines produce today from Europe are part classic European vintage and part North American. While every vine has distinct merits, the French grape is better than North American grape argument is moot because the French grape is partially North American!
So, what does any of this have to do with French winemakers and Spain? During the death of the vineyards in Europe, the vintage winemakers spread out across the region to far flung vineyards. Remember, there were no cars or planes then. The Rioja region of Spain was once such area. It was remote enough that phylloxera was not a problem. The French set to work and the wine from the region has been excellent every since then.