Rioja returns to favor in US

Jake Nieminen

from http://www.winophilia.com/2010/10/21/rioja-returns-to-favor/

For many American wine lovers, especially those of a certain age, Spanish wine means Rioja—and specifically red Rioja. Riojas are typically based on Spain’s indigenous tempranillo grape; the wines display a range of red fruit and floral qualities, with sound acidity providing backbone and freshness. Traditionally, Rioja’s flavors, texture and weight were reminiscent of Bordeaux. But in contrast to classic Bordeaux, most Riojas received extended aging in barrels, usually made of American oak, and this approach yielded wines that were drinkable soon after release. The juicy red fruit, spice and vanilla flavors and supple tannins of classic Riojas made these wines quite popular among savvy American consumers through the 1980s and early 1990s. Fair prices didn’t hurt their appeal either.

In the early 1990s American importers began expanding their Spanish portfolios, exploring regions in Spain’s dry, warm west and southeast that previously had virtually no presence in the American marketplace but whose wines could offer excellent value. Market share for these new areas came at the expense of Rioja, whose wines are drier and more structured than those warmer regions’ examples, which tend to be fruity, low in tannin and higher in alcohol as well. But tastes are cyclical, and many of today’s winos are shifting away from rich, jammy reds in favor of more graceful, structured wines that work better with food. That plays straight to the strengths of Rioja. The good news is that prices have mostly remained stable over the last decade. Even better news is that winemaking standards have leapt forward, as has the selection of Riojas available to Americans.

During my extensive annual Spanish wine tastings for the International Wine Cellar (hundreds of the best Spanish wines are reviewed in the current issue, with more on tap for the next one), I mostly tasted wines from the cooler, damper 2008 and 2007 vintages. While collectors are mostly shunning those years for the more ageworthy 2005s that are still in the market, or waiting for the promising 2009s, a number of ’08s and ’07s make for delightful near-term drinking. So they are good choices for consumers who don’t have proper conditions for cellaring wine or who simply believe in instant gratification.

Among the standouts of this year’s tastings was the 2007 Bodegas Palacios Remondo La Montesa Rioja ($20; Folio Fine Wine Partners), made by famed Spanish winemaker Alvaro Palacios, who is also responsible for some of Spain’s most sought-after and expensive wines from Priorat. It offers smooth texture, upfront fruity appeal, and the alluring oak-spicy character that marks classic Rioja. With no hard edges, it’s delicious right now.

Bodegas Don Sancho de Londoño (Olé Imports) makes some of the greatest value-priced Riojas in the market, and while their entry-level Cortijo bottling is always a stunning value at around $10, the next step up, the 2008 Calma Rioja ($15), a blend of 90% tempranillo and 10% graciano, is a more complex and solid wine, with greater depth and power as well. It drinks well now but will be even better in a few years.

For a wilder example of Rioja try the 2007 Ramon de Alaya Lete e Hijos Viña Santurnia Rioja Crianza ($15; Antalva Imports), which offers serious complexity for the money, with smoky, meaty and spice qualities complementing sweet red fruit. It’s a very flexible wine with food and would be great with braised lamb dishes this fall.

Made in a more modern, fruit-driven style, the 2008 Conde de Hervías Mencos Rioja ($16; De Maison Selections) presents a compelling array of flowers, spices and red and dark berries, along with a seamless texture. For the money it shows serious depth and drinks well right now. In a similar vein but with more brightness I recommend the energetic 2008 Luberri Seis de Luberri Rioja ($18; De Maison), which offers sweet red and dark fruit flavors and silky tannins. The 2007 version, which is still available in some markets for the same price, displays more depth and a greater emphasis on dark fruits than the 2008.

If you’re up for a splurge, try the 2007 Finca Allende Rioja ($26; Fine Estates from Spain), an exotic, exhilaratingly spicy and perfumed Rioja that delivers a load of juicy fruit. This wine bears comparison to plenty of other Riojas that sell for twice the price.

Incidentally, for as little as $19.95 (for a two-month trial subscription), you can get immediate access to all of my coverage of Spain, as well as unlimited access to the entire on-line IWC, which includes the current issue, nearly 13 years of back issues, and an archive of tasting notes that now exceeds 80,000 wines. Your subscription also provides links that can help you find recommended wines in the marketplace and enables you to participate in the unusually civilized IWC discussion forum.